How to Tune a Ski

Skis wear down fast if you use them frequently, and need to be edged and waxed so you can "bite" the snow to turn but still glide smoothly forward. While ski shops offer high quality tuning services, serious skiing hobbyists may want to learn the process themselves so they can save money and make personalized adjustments.

Steps

Part 1 Prepping and Edging

1. 1 Bring the skis in out of the cold. After a long day of skiing, you will want to bring your skis inside to raise them to room temperature. If you proceed to wax a ski while it is still cold, there's a chance that you will bubble the base and create a lot more work for yourself.
   • You can get started on the edging while waiting for your skis to warm up.
2. 2 Secure the skis. Clamp the skis securely to a vise at a comfortable work height, on their side with the top of the ski facing you. If you don't have a a vise, place two chairs facing each other and weigh them down with heavy objects on their seats to make them stable. Lay the skis across the top of the seat backs, and fasten them securely with bungee cords. Make sure the skis are completely stable before you continue.
   • You can put small pieces of cardboard between the skis and the vise clamps to prevent scratching.
3. 3 Tie brakes out of the way. Use brake retainer bands or large, thick rubber bands to pull the ski brakes up and out of the way of the ski edges.
4. 4 Consider the base edge. This is the edge between the base of the ski and the side. For most purposes and ski models, this should be at a 1º angle. While you can sharpen this edge in the same way as the side edge, described below, there is a higher risk of damaging the skis by scratching the ski base. If the base edge has become dull or in need of reshaping, getting this done at a ski shop is recommended. If you do this yourself, sharpen the base edge before you sharpen the side edge, using the same tools and process described below.
5. 5 Remove burrs from the side edge. Run your finger along the side edge of your skis, between the upper surface and the side. If you feel irregular nicks or rough patches, of if you see rust along the edge, file those areas down with a wet diamond stone, gummy stone, or bastard file. Hold the tool flat against the edge and push in long strokes over the rough patch, in one direction only. Repeat until the edge is mostly smooth.
   • If your edges are already sharpened, don't run your finger along them, or you could cut yourself. Wear gloves or just use the stone a few times without testing.
    
6. 6 Sharpen and shape the side edge. For the average skier, this should be done roughly once every seven ski days, or whenever it feels like turning has become more difficult. You can get this done at a ski shop, or do it yourself:
   • Purchase a special ski file from a ski shop, along with a side edger that holds the file at a 1º angle (or a 1.5º or 2º angle if recommended by the ski manufacturer).
   • If you haven't done this before, use a black felt tip marker to draw a line along the edge. This is a useful guide for beginners: file away this line, but no further, and you should get a sharp edge without overdoing it.
   • Place the file against the side edge of the ski. Hold the side edger vertically, so the file will press against the edge at the required angle. Push the file into the ski edge at constant pressure to keep it flat, then push along the length of the ski in long strokes. Repeat, pushing the file in one direction only, until the entire length of the skis has been filed about 20 times.
   • You can file tip to tail or tail to tip, as long as you stick to one direction.
   • Test how sharp your edges are by using them to scrape off a bit of your fingernail. The less pressure you use, the sharper your edge.
7. 7 Adjust the skis. Reposition the skis so the base is horizontal and facing upward, in preparation for waxing.
8. 8 Clean off old wax and dust. Rub the base and edges of the skis down with a rag or soft-bristled brush to remove dust and debris. If there is a great deal of crumbling old wax, use a base cleaner or wax solvent from a ski shop.

Part 2 Waxing

1. 1 Repair gouges if necessary. If the base of your skis has noticeable gouges, you'll need P-tex candles to repair them. Gouges that expose the metal beneath may need more serious repairs from a ski shop. These candles burn very hot, so wear heat-proof gloves and remove all flammable materials from the area before you begin.
   • Hold the P-tex candle over the gouge and light the end of the candle with a lighter.
   • Drip the P-tex wax into the gouge until it is filled, or touch it to the gouge for more accurate filling. Take care not to spill this anywhere else, as the wax can be tough to scrape off.
   • Let the wax cool for at least an hour, then scrape it flat using a wax scraper (see the end of this section for more information on scraping.)
2. 2 Select a ski wax based on temperature. Different waxes are suitable for snow at different temperatures, so check the forecast for the location where you'll be skiing next. Typically, a cold weather wax is suitable for temperatures under 20ºF (-7º C), medium wax is best for conditions between 20 and 32ºF (-7º to 0ºC), and warm weather wax should be used in temperatures above 32ºF (0ºC).
   • It's better to err on the cold side. If you use a wax for too warm a temperature, your skis will become sticky and won't glide nearly as well on the snow.
3. 3 Warm up the skis with an iron. A waxing iron, which has no holes in the base, does a much better job than a regular clothes iron. If you do use a regular clothes iron, you will not be able to use it for clothes again, and there is a higher risk of damaging your skis. Set the iron to the minimum temperature setting and give it a few minutes to warm up. Once it's warm, run it along the ski base once or twice to warm up the ski.
4. 4 Drip wax onto the warm skis. Hold the bar of wax against your iron to drip a generous amount of wax onto the ski base, moving in a zig zag pattern.
   • Stop if your wax smokes, and unplug the iron for a few minutes to cool it down.
5. 5 Iron the wax onto the ski. Push the iron over the wax in long, steady strokes, moving lengthwise along the skis. Always keep the iron moving, as even a couple seconds in the same spot can burn your ski base and ruin it. Repeat until the wax has melted into one smooth surface.
6. 6 Let the wax cool. Wait at least one hour for the wax to cool. For best results, leave the skis overnight.

Part 3 Planing and Finishing

1. 1 Select a scraper. A hard plastic ski scraper works well, and is the safest option for beginners, since there is little risk of damaging the skis. A metal scraper or even a wide razor blade will work, but can easily scratch the ski base if you aren't careful.
2. 2 Scrape off excess wax. Once the wax has cooled, it's time to scrape the wax down to a thinner, flatter surface. This can take significant time and effort for beginners, but it will greatly improve the ski's performance on powdery snow.
   • Hold the scraper with both hands and start at the tip of the groove, holding the scraper at a 45º angle to the base. Starting at the groove ensures that a slip will only nick the wax on the base, not the base itself.
   • Pull the scraper firmly toward you, along the length of the groove. Flakes of wax should come off as you do this. Repeat until very little wax comes off.
   • Repeat for the rest of the base, scraping off excess wax with even pressure. While you can remove all the wax, leaving a thin layer on the skis will help the surface last longer before it needs retuning.
3. 3 Detune the tips and tails (optional). This is a somewhat controversial step that comes down to personal preference. It may make your skis glide more smoothly, but try them out without this step before you make the change. If you do decide to detune the tips and tails, place a regular sharpening stone against the 2–3 inch (5–7.5 cm) section past the "shovel" or "tail" where the ski swoops up. Run it vertically along this section of the edge, dulling it enough that you can see a light's reflection on the edge. Repeat for all edge sections near the tips and tails.
   • This will also reduce the chance of cutting yourself on the ski edge if you hold it by the end.
4. 4 Brush the wax (optional). Restoring a little texture to the ski may improve performance. If you expect icy or hard-packed conditions, a horsehair brush or copper brush works well. If you expect soft snow or just want to brush off irregularities in the wax, use a nylon brush instead. Either way, brush along the base of the ski a few times to make shallow, visible streaks.