Tuning Kits Etc.

Question
Hi Ron with reference to your last reply regarding fluoro wax. Loads of things I didn抰 consider luckily im talking to you.
However what I forgot to tell you is that Terry did not suggest me specifically to layer Super Hot Sauce non fluoro on top of FC739. Actually I was looking for a system that requires less maintenance as possible but at the same time affordable. As you know FC739 is not cheap and to use it daily it puts a hole in my pocket. Besides, although some of the chalets/hotels in a resort have locker rooms where you can do some hot waxing there, they won抰 be happy if every single customer does it on a daily bases. So I was looking for a system that instead of focusing on speed, it focuses more on maintenance free. And that抯 why I asked Terry if using an expensive FC739 as a base prep once and then maintain it with a cheaper Hot Sauce would be good. In fact first, before I talked to you, I was thinking of using FC739 as base prep, Hot Sauce every 3-4 days, and daily a mix of Liquid Hot Sauce with Zardoz.

But then after what you told me, by no means I want fluoro close to the base. So what I will do now is, every 3-4 days do a good base prep (one hot scrape and two coats) using Hot Sauce, then one final coat using FC739. Then daily use either the Liquid hot sauce or Zardoz to prolong the hot waxing as much as I can. What do you think?

I also would like to start to learn how to fix, tune etc. in my place we have no snow, no lifts, no resorts so you can imagine how much ski shops and ski technicians we have. And its not worth it to send the boards by mail to get them fixed. The mail sometimes costs more than the board itself. From where do you suggest I should start?


Answer
Hi Joe,

I think you've got a good plan. I'm pretty lucky to have one of the best shops in the country right in my town, and they do all of my base/edge work. Chris sometimes waxes my skis, unless I'm racing him- then he leaves me high-and dry...

I find that I can get my board and skis pretty sharp with a file, but the guys at Colesport have a Montana grinder that delivers unparalleled consistancy. I hate having to "get used to" a new tune- so consistancy is really important. I ride race boards- so I keep a 1 degree base, and 2 degree side bevel. I've no idea what freestyle boards use- I'd imagine a 1-1.5 base, and 0 side- for a less than 90 degree edge.

Have you been to Tognar Toolworks? It's Tognar.com, and they've got just about everything you'll need for tuning.

What I try (try, not always succeed) to do is maintain the edge with a diamond stone- once every few days when the snow is nice, more often if it's ice, and of course any time I get a burr. I'd be sure to have file guides (base and side), a medium and fine diamond stone, and a gummy stone as your initial tools.

I find it's important to have good files- cheap ones dull too easily and don't cut well- but a file is useless without those bevel guides. You'll want to get a file card (brush) at the same time.

You probably already have plastic scrapers, and a scraper sharpener is a pretty useful tool- you do need to make sure the edge is flat before sharpening it though- I clamp mine between two boards and file them flat, and then sharpen them. The sharpener tends to make them concave.

A Pansar file, and a metal scraper are necessary if you are doing base repair, especially with P-Tex candles. I never use them- they don't stay in place, and don't hold wax. If a ding is big, I have it cut out and replaced- if it's small, I have it welded (which also does not hold wax, but at least it stays). You can get a hobby iron and do your own welds- check out Tognar's co-polymer ribbon for this. It's kinda gummy, but it will stick to the edge.

Careful with any base repair in a hotel- you'd hate to set off the smoke alarms... Toko makes a base repair powder that I used to use, but have not in a very long time. If I remember correctly, the advantage is that it contains an adhesive, and supposedly holds wax- because the beads never really melt- they sort of sinter with the help of the adhesive. Again, you'll need a hobby iron for this- I would not use your wax iron.

If you really get into it, you'll want a stock of scotchbrite pads for buffing, or a roto-brush. One thing with the rotobrush- the snowboard versions require a pretty hefty drill to take the torque- but an advantage is that you can cork in your wax and generate some heat with the brush for your touch-ups- no iron required. Careful doing this in the spring, as the brush generates static electricity, and you'll only add to your grime build-up.

A folding tuning bench is a nice accessory to have- but stay away from a branded wax box like Toko's or Swix- it's like having a big sign that says "steal me". Plus, I find I always end up with wax on my files.

In your workshop, be sure to have bandages on hand- you'll be amazed by how often you cut yourself. Most techs use gloves- but I can't seem to get a good feel for the file. Get a plastic cup or bowl with a lid- fill it with water and add a splash of anti-freeze to it (unless you have a dog or cats around). Dip your diamond stone in the mix to lubricate and clean it- antifreeze suspends the particulates that come up with the stone, while just dipping in water can lead to rust on the edges from the particle dust.

There are a bunch of free guides on-line, as well as tuning manuals available from tognar. I'd ask them for their suggestions.

Sorry about the lack of resorts- where are you based?

Ron