K2 one luv
Question
I haven't bought a new pair of skis in almost 13 years and it is time. I am a great blue/single black diamond girl. No love for moguls (anymore) but love fresh powder. I have my eyes on pair of 2008 K2 one luvs- used. They have a Marker Titanium 1200 Binding. The K2 One luvs all appear to come standard with Marker M1 11 TI Integrated Binding. First question- any big difference between 2008 and 2009 model? Second what about the binding? Third- anything to really watch out for with used skis? The seller says no damage other than general cosmetic from use. Thanks!
Answer
Hi Abby and thanx for the question;
Im afraid i cant answer specific questions about equipment as i have been off skis for 3 seasons now. Check out the manufactureres website or ski mags for the best info.
Generally year to year the biggest difference is colours/design. There may be some differences in sidecut or core material. But generally most people dont know which core they prefer anyway. As for side-cut you need one to suit your ski style.
BINDINGS:
what DIN setting are your current bindings on? The number on the toe piece of your current skis? You need to make sure the bindings you are buying are within this range to ensure they will be suited to you. If you are going to be at either end of the range - they are not the best ones for you. Bindings work using a spring under pressure - too much or too little pressure applied and the release wont be effective for you [you will either pre-release or wont release at all].
When buying second hand - try to twist the binding with your hand - if you cant move it, put a boot in and se if you can get it to release - if not i personally wouldnt buy the binding as i cant be assured it will work when i need it to.
SKIS:
* Look for rust on the edges and around the binding.
* Look along the edges for separation - this isnt a good thing as the edges work best when attatched to the ski.
* Carefully check along the edges with your fingers to feel for burrs - if you're finding burrs, the skis need a tune up [take care not to cut yourself or get a splinter].
* If the burs are big - then you will remove more edge to clean it up - remember edges and bases are only thin - so the more you have to remove to tidy up the ski, the less you have left.
* Look for deep grooves in the bases - anything deeper than half of 1mm and you will be removing alot of base to get it out.
* Look for fuzzy patches on the base - this means skis havent been looked after and kept waxed - increase chance of moiture in the bases making them warp
* Put the ski on the ground or put your eye along it and look for any lumps/bumps on the bases - this indicates moiture in the base - and it will never sit flat.
* Push on the ski between the binding; holding the tip in your other hand' to check for flex. It should still be nice and springy - if not, walk away.
* Scratches on the topsheet need to be very superficial, if it looks like it has gone thru to the core - you will have moisture in there and that is not a good thing.
* check for twists in the ski - again put it on the ground or look along it with your eye. A warped ski is about as useful as a fencepost.
Hope there are some tips in there to make buying second hand easier. yes there is a lot to rememebr, but if youtake the time to check for these things your chance of a lemon is decreased.
lisa
Snowboarding in the rain
boots