Pinnacles N.M.

Question
Hi Robert,
I only climb on the East side, all the popular spots (Monolith, Discovery, Back Door, Upper Crust, Camel, Tiber-X, and T-Trap) - recently been up to Yaks. Are there any good, quality unpopular areas on the East side?
What routes do you recommend at all levels?
How Much farther is it to the West side from Hollister?
Is it worth the extra drive for a day trip?
Thanks, Craig

Answer
Dear Craig,

  
  The West Side is more of a trad climber's area, but its beauty and the longer routes available make it more than worth many visits.
The drive to the West Side from Hollister is likely from 35 to 50 minutes longer than the drive from Hollister to the East Side.  If you don't mind walking, the hike along the Old Pinnacles Trail from the Chalone Creek parking/picnic area to the West Side takes a bit more than a half hour and is a very easy walk.  Take the Balconies fork of the trail (up and right) and you will soon be below the Balconies wall.  Shake and Bake (5.10) and Lava Falls (5.9+) are among the top twenty classic climbs in California.  Both involve hanging belays and long, long runouts.  Long experience of Pinnacles climbing and true competence are required for both of these babies.  I advise against venturing up Digger and Hook and Drill, both death routes.  The old regular route has some good climbing, but is consistently rotten.  I've been up it several times and had no fun. September, October and November are the ideal months to venture up on Balconies. Two ropes are necessary for the descent rappel.  Even Coyotes like it doggie style (right off the trail) is a good climb.  It was rated 10a, but a broken hold at the crux has put it somewhere in the 11 range now.  Continuing along the Balconies trail, you will soon reach the Tilting Terrace area.  This area has many new routes and is much more of a sport climbing crag than most on the West Side.  All of the routes are in the 9 and 10 range except for the original classic, Tilting Terrace.  I especially recommend the original Tilting Terrace route and Adam's Apple, a 5.9 second pitch finish.  Bits "N Pieces is good, too.  It has a pretty intimidating second pitch (4 bolts) that isn't in the guide.  Take a look at Clint Cummins's website  http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/pin/index.htm for a topo of this area.  Also, you'll want to wait until the rains have departed before you venture on these climbs.  They are especially subject to lush, slimy moss.  Over on Machete Ridge one of the best climbs is Destiny.  It's rated 5.8, but the distance between bolts and some very delicate moves make this a classic.  It is good at all times except during a rainstorm.  I've always liked Desperado Chuteout, but I tend to be in the minority camp as far as this climb is concerned.  It's way long and is best done in the spring.  The first pitch of Machete Direct is as challenging as almost anything on Monolith.  The bolts are good.  I like the west wall of Chockstone Dome for something mild and relaxing.  Two one pitch climbs (Overboard and Walk the plank) make for good warm-up climbs.  Both are nicely protected.  I'm also partial to Toog's Gallery in the springtime.  The crux is a good bit harder than 5.7 and the runs are long.  Again, several of my partners think this climb is a stinker, unless I'm leading.  Kamikaze Kommute has some good climbing, but is very poorly protected.  Death falls are likely if you make a mistake.  Bandits in Bondage (11a) is good, too.  I forgot to mention it.  It is also subject to moss and it's been some years since I did it.  
This was a bit disorganized, but I hope it helps.   The West Side requires more time, more patience, and more skill.  The rewards for the effort expended, however, are great.  I wish you well.  Let me know if you want me to go into greater detail about the climbs I've mentioned, or if you wish me to add some less obvious routes to the list.

Bob Walton