rope care

Question
The weather is finally starting to break in the north east and I have been going out and climbing real rock again, I  almost forgot how hard real rock can be, but so free to go where ever you want.  Sometimes I can't set my top rope so that the rope is off the rock.  The other day the rope took a beatting.  How do you know when it is time to stop using your rope and get a new on? Also is it ok for the rope to rub that hard on the rock.

Thank you this is a great service. JA

Answer
There is no set formula as to when to stop using a rope, because every situation is different.  Some common indications that a rope should be retired is if the sheath is freid or has been damaged by the sun.  Also, feel the rope for and abnormaly soft or hard spots.  Many rope manufacturers rate their ropes by the number of factor 2 falls that it can withstand.  A factor 2 fall is a fall in which the falling distance is twice the length of the between you and your last anchor(not posible when top roping).  This number is usually between 7 and 10 depending on the rope diameter.  Some people simply go by usage to determine when to retire their rope.  Have you been climbing very frequently taking long falls?  Or are you only climbing once a month?  Again there is no set fromula, and it depends greatly on the rope.  As for rubbing on rock, that is to be expected.  You can minimize this in a couple of different ways.  There is a rubber or plastic tube on the climbing market that attaches to your anchor through which your rope runs so it doesn't touch the rock.  A less expencive alternative is to use a pair of old jeans and drape them over the edge.  As far a the rubbing goes, manufacturers know this and have developed their products to handle the abuse, just keep an eye on the rope because it will expire.  Hope that helps.


Nick