Climbing @ Pinnacles

Question
Robert,  I just moved back to Cali from Utah and am planning a camping/climbing trip to the Pinnacles.  I have been reading up on the area and it seems like there are a lot of warnings for loose rock and dangerous areas.  I will be the only experienced climber in the group and want to find an area to climb that first:Isn't dangerous to the new comers and also an area that I can climb a little.  Any area's in the monument that you can suggest that fit these criteria?  Thank yo for your help.

Answer
Dear Ken,

  
  The West (Soledad)Side is more friendly to beginners than the East Side.  Take the Caves Trail out of the parking lot.  After half a mile or so, you'll reach a small rise and some actual pinnacles.  The Shepherd area is the wall on your left. It's across the dry streambed.  It has several top-rope routes and two routes that can be led.  Anchors (5 elderly bolts) may be reached via 3rd class climbing up an amorphous arete from the left.  The rock here is sound (as sound as it gets, I should say) and the situation is easily controllable for teaching beginners.   Just over the little rise past the Shepherd and down into the small valley the trail passes a large rectangular rock.  This is a good practice rock.  Short routes on the west face are 5.9 to 5.10.  Short routes on the south face are 5.0 to 5.8.  Belays can be set up on top.  Scramble up from the low east side.  
Continuing along the Caves trail, you'll reach the junction with the Balconies trail.   Walk up Balconies Trail for several switchbacks and you will soon reach the Tilting Terrace climbers' trail.  It shoots off the end of a switchback and into the bushes. Tilting Terrace is partway up the cliff looming to the southwest and has a prominent oak growing on it.  This area has many new routes and is much more of a sport climbing crag than most on the West Side.  All of the routes are in the 5.9 and 5.10 range except for the original classic, Tilting Terrace.  I especially recommend the original Tilting Terrace route and Adam's Apple, a 5.9 second pitch finish.  Bits "N Pieces is good, too.  It has a pretty intimidating second pitch (4 bolts) that isn't in the guide.  Take a look at Clint Cummins's website  http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/pin/index.htm for a topo of this area. This is much more difficult climbing and, aside from Tilting Terrace, you may not wish to take beginners here.  
I like Chockstone Dome most of all for introducing friends to climbing.  Continue past the Caves/Balconies junction on the Caves Trail.  Just twenty yards or so before entering caves, look up and left.  Chockstone is the huge boulder resting against Machete Ridge.  Take a climbers' trail up and to your left.  Then contour back right behind a big boulder.  You'll reach a smaller boulder resting against a stone shelf.  Scramble up this and face the Dome.  A 5.3 route (two bolts) and an easy run get you to the top.  This is a perfect first climb on sound rock.  Only the first 30 feet is 5th class. Two one pitch climbs on the Dome's west face(Overboard and Walk the plank) make for good follow-up climbs.  Both are nicely protected if you wish to lead them.  Both can be readily top-roped if you prefer.  Overboard has some loose rock on it.  
Do let me know if this helps you out.  Query me again if you want my thoughts on the East Side.  I will mention the Camel Area on the Rim Trail.  It has a number of top-rope routes of various levels on a solid wall in front of the Pinnacle.  Otherwise, the climbing is not beginner friendly.  First Sister near the Reservoir is good for climbers with a bit of experience.  The climbing is mild and solid, but run-out.  Also a two-rope rap is required to get down.  
  If you don't have a guide, peek at the copy in either visitors center.  Six or eight draws, several locking carabiners and various slings will be enough gear for everything I've mentioned in this note.  


Bob Walton

P.S.  I'm in the King City book.  Give me a call.  If I'm free, I'll meet you out there.