cimbing style

Question
Hello.
I am from switzerland and I would like to know if the routes in the place you live are mainly trad or sport ?

Here it's 95% sport even in the multi-pitch routes (though sometines it is better to have some nuts or cams).

And what is the type of rocks ?

Thanks

Answer
Dear Stefan,

Pinnacles National Monument is a great place for traveling climbers to visit.  It is close to Monterey, Carmel and Big Sur.  World-class scenery, dining, music, museums and entertainment are all easily available after a day on the rock.  

Pinnacles rock is volcanic breccia.  There are few cracks.  Protection on most routes is 100% bolts, mostly well-placed and modern.  I always take a small selection of cams and chocks in case a natural pocket allows adding to the pre-placed bolts.  Most routes, too, are short, one pitch or so and can be climbed as sport climbs.  Some can be top-roped.  I believe that the spacing of the bolts may be wider than on most European climbs.  Some routes are quite run-out.  The quality of the rock also varies.  Most popular routes have good quality rock.  Less traveled routes can have horribly rotten rock.  Overall, Pinnacles rock is much less solid than granite or limestone.  It's usually much better than sandstone.  

If you let me know when you plan to visit, I can suggest specific climbs that may interest you.  Summer is hot at Pinnacles, 40 to 45 degrees Celsius daily.  Pleasant climbing can be had in morning or afternoon shade even on the hottest days.  Spring and autumn are the best times to visit Pinnacles.  

Also of interest to you is the fact that Greenfield and Soledad, two towns near the west entrance of Pinnacles, were heavily settled by people from Canton Ticino about ninety years ago.  The Swiss tradition, culture and presence are still strong in the Salinas Valley.  

I've included two helpful websites for you view.  

http://www.pinnacles.org/

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/   -- Clint is a friend of mine and he'll write back if you send him questions.

Please write again if you decide to visit and would like a list of my favorite climbs.  I am delighted to share knowledge of this beautiful place with climbers elsewhere in the world.  

Robert Walton