retirement
Question
when do you retire a rope, what guidelines do you use
Answer
I honestly think you'll know when it's time to retire a rope based on the look and feel.
Here is the answer I gave to a similar question a couple of years ago:
"There is no set formula as to when to stop using a rope, because every situation is different. Some common indications that a rope should be retired is if the sheath is frayed or has been damaged by the sun. Also, feel the rope for and abnormally soft or hard spots. Many rope manufacturers rate their ropes by the number of factor 2 falls that it can withstand. A factor 2 fall is a fall in which the falling distance is twice the length of the between you and your last anchor(not possible when top roping). This number is usually between 7 and 10 depending on the rope diameter. Some people simply go by usage to determine when to retire their rope. Have you been climbing very frequently taking long falls? Or are you only climbing once a month? Again there is no set formula, and it depends greatly on the rope. As for rubbing on rock, that is to be expected. You can minimize this in a couple of different ways. There is a rubber or plastic tube on the climbing market that attaches to your anchor through which your rope runs so it doesn't touch the rock. A less expensive alternative is to use a pair of old jeans and drape them over the edge. As far a the rubbing goes, manufacturers know this and have developed their products to handle the abuse, just keep an eye on the rope because it will expire."
This is Sterling's website FAQ that has a couple more guidelines:
http://www.sterlingrope.com/2005/faq.asp#h3_93
The bottom line is that it's better to be safe than sorry considering the rope is your lifeline. Quality ropes are made with very strong materials, but I'd rather make the paper for having made the first ascent of a 5.12 than for my rope breaking. Use your best judgement and if you're unsure if it's time to get a new rope, then it probably is. If not for your safety, atleast for your peace of mind so you con focus on the climb and not wether or not your rope will hold your next fall.
Hope this helps. Thanks for the question,
Nick
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