Question
Allen Steck on FA of Y
Hi Robert, Now that I'm over the hill I specialize in reminiscing. (e.g. www.gasherbrum1.org) Some of the most enjoyable memories are of PNM during the 50's. Question: By today's standards how would the Hand (Salathe route) an the Yaks be rated?
AnswerDear Bob,
It's a real pleasure for me to answer your question. The first ascent of Gasherbrum I is one of the brightest, proudest passages in American climbing. You guys did it right. You respected each other and the mountain and you finally got the summit. I've long admired your achievement. All knowledgeable climbers do and will continue to do so in years to come. Your combined efforts honored our sport and our country.
The Yaks climb (I assume you mean the 5.7 route on South Yak) is an intermediate climb nowadays. It has a moderate rating on the much-abused Yosemite decimal scale, but the runouts are long and the rock is sometimes doubtful. Leaders need to know what they're doing and pay attention. About twenty years ago I led this route in November. I had to bypass a dried up bush growing out of the ongoing crack. My partner crashed right through the leafless bush. A few days later, he was confined to bed, feverish and blistered, with a disastrous case of poison oak. He recovered after a series of steroid shots. His wife didn't speak to me for two years.
Salathe on the Hand is rated a very moderate 5.6, but I never recommend the climb. I figure only old Pinnacles hands and very experienced climbers will be safe up there. As you'll remember, the climbing is sustained, barely protected and super-exposed. The big traverse is dangerous for leaders and followers both. The belay stance (that little dinner plate of a ledge) is one of the scariest in my experience. I've not actually done the complete Salathe. I've always taken the Burnette bolt variation (5.7), straight up from the belay. This affords more climbing and a bit more protection. Altogether, Salathe is still a serious piece of work and climbers who ascend it are justifiably pleased with themselves.
Yours,
Bob Walton
P.S. Here's my email address in case you wish to correspond with me directly:
[email protected].
P.P.S. Here are a couple of Pinnacles related websites which you may find interesting.
http://www.pinnacles.org/
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/pin/ (Clint Cummins posts this site. He's a fine climber and would love to hear from you.)
