QuestionI've learned that it's best not to lower someone from the chains after leading a sport route but rather it's best for them to rappel...the idea being that it's better for the rope and for the chains to not have the rope under load while moving through the chains. If there is a sharp edge to the chain it could cut the rope...if the rope has abrasive dust on it eventually it could degrade the chain.
What are your thoughts on this? Also, what do you think about people using the chains as an anchor for a sport route. To me it's bad news but some do it.
Answer
anchor
Gerry,
The problem people have with lowering off the chains is really the ware and on the chains, not the rope. Top roping or lowering off routes is simply hard on your rope, there's very little you can do about it other than what you mentioned about rappelling rather than lowering.
What I don't like to see is the lesser experienced (usually the second) up there threading the anchor and folks shouting up instructions. I would rather see people toproping directly through the chains than that.
I have a good illustration I could attach, however, I don't think I can do it with the all experts format. If you e-mail me direct @
[email protected] I can send you an attachment with additional information.
Jeff Fassett
www.climbarizona.com
