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Silent Partner


Question
QUESTION: Hi,
I just got the Silent Partner in the mail and intend to try it out tomorrow.  Any advice on how to back it up?  
Thanks

ANSWER: Dear Aaron,

I do not own a Silent Partner and have never had my hands on one.  It sounds great, but I advise a familiarization period on easy or top-roped routes.  If you try it out on a top-roped route, it would be easy to back it up with a prussik sling.  It's old fashioned, but I still use a prussik knot and sling when making a difficult rappel.  Otherwise, I'm not sure what you can do to back this device up.  The web address below may offer some suggestions.  I'd be interested to know how you like this piece of equipment.  Do write back if you have time.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/gear/Detailed/600.html

Yours,

Bob Walton

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks Bob,
I know how to do a prussik, but... How do you do the prussik sling?  does it get caught up while you're climbing?  At first I'm going to top rope w/ two ropes.  One rope on lead w/ the Silent Partner.  And the other rope fixed w/ some sort of backup.  Sounds like I should use a prussik sling on the backup line, but how should I do this and will it keep gettting caught up or will it slide up the fixed line w/out resistance?
Thanks so much Bob!

Answer
Dear Aaron,

Your plan sounds good to me.  

You use a standard length tied or sewn sling.  Cord works better than tape, though both do work.  Hold one end in your left hand.  Take a couple of loose wraps around the rope.  Take the end in your right hand back through the bite in your left hand.  Do not snug the knot.  Clip it to a locking carabiner on your harness.  

When climbing, you have to keep the loose knot ahead of you.  This is irritating, but necessary.  It won't take care of itself and it will tighten up if you don't watch it.  A prussik sling is not a perfect solution here, but it can work.  A gris-gris, if you have access to one, will do more or less the same thing on a top rope and it might be less of a hassle.  

Please let me know how it works out.

Bob

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