Pinnacles - Machete Ridge Direct 5.8 A1

Question
Hi Bob, first, thank you for putting yourself out there as a resource.  This is a great way to get some real first hand route knowledge and I really appreciate it.  My partner and I are looking at doing the Direct route next week.  My biggest question is about the aid climbing sections.  Is the distance between bolts enough to just use draws an etrier or is more aid gear required?  This will be our first route on Machete, she's leading in the 11s and I'm in the low 10s, so it looks doable.  Thanks for your time and insights!

Answer
6/26/10

Dear Frank,

I checked around among Pinnacles regulars and nobody I know has been up the entire route lately, though original bolts (at least some) have been upgraded during the past ten years.

Bob


Dear Frank,

I confess it's been awhile since I was up there all the way, but no equipment beyond draws and etriers should be required.  That said, let me go pitch by pitch.  

Pitch #1 to hanging belay:   It's a bit far to the first bolt, but the 10b section is very enjoyable.  The original (aid) route goes left after the 3rd bolt.  These bolts are farther apart than ones in the subsequent aid sections.  Stepping out of the last one is tricky.  A left hand sidepull at chest height helps me.   

Pitch # 2, hanging belay to first ledge:  The rock is sound, but the runout is long.  I'm always happy to see that second bolt.  

Pitch # 3, ledge/ramp to pyramid:  This traverse is longer than you expect and ends at a curious pyramidal formation.  You'll find the belay tucked in just below this formation.

Pitch #4, ledge one to ledge two:  This begins with a sharp overhang.  The moves are awkward even if you use aid here.  The moves between bolts two and three are hard for me, too.  After that, it's good Pinnacles water chute climbing.  The bolts on this pitch are tough to see.  Don't stray too far left after (or before!) bolt # 3 or you'll get involved with the "My Mistake" variation, an X route.  

Pitch # 5, ledge two to rotten alcove:  The aid bolts are close together and should present no problems.  Moving up and left into the big groove takes you into significant loose rock.  It's not hard, but what do you trust?  Your belayer is mostly out of the fall line and beneath an overhang.  The trail, however, is below.

Pitch # 6, alcove to top:  Once you've worked your way up to the big face beneath the tower, #3 and #4 camalots can protect in the crack.  I'm leery of that crack, though, as much of it is loose.  Also, I advise against taking the Tower Bypass variation.  I've climbed it twice and neither time did I find the single bolt.  Brad Young assures me that it's there, but I don't intend to look for it again.  The crack/ramp to the top only rarely takes pro.  It's a nerve-wracking 5.6.  

Again, I haven't gone all the way in years and I haven't spoken with anyone who has.  Many come for the 5.12 first pitch and then lower off.  If you arrive as early as you can, you'll be able to climb in the shade until nearly 11:00.  This makes a big difference in June.  Old Pinnacles climbers keep careful track of when and where the shade hits.  It's a locals secret, but summer can be the best climbing time of all at Pinnacles - in the morning in the shade.  I'll check around and see if anyone has been up the route lately.  If new beta turns up, I'll add to this answer.  By the by, if you don't have Brad Young's guide, you should get a copy.  His topo of the climb is excellent.

One caveat:  this route is right over the caves trail.  Rockfall from the upper pitches does hit that trail.  Take special care finishing.

Machete climbing on a June morning is flat gorgeous and you'll usually have the place to yourself.  Have a great time!

Bob