Workout Plans?

Question
Hi Nicholas,

Thanks for volunteering your time! I really appreciate it.

I have began bouldering and climbing in college and I really enjoy it. I want to
supplement this with a workout session in the gym, however I'm not sure
which muscle groups to work on as I hear working on the wrong muscle
groups can impede progress because it increases unnecessary weight on the
body.

Do you have any suggestions on which parts of the body I should work on
mainly?

Thanks!

Answer
Hi Ivan,

I think that body building can hider climbing progress, but I don't think a supplemental workout will cause you a problem.  

I can think of 3 general areas to focus on.  

First are the pulling muscles that you will use most in climbing like your back and biceps.  Lat pull downs, rows, and curls will help you here.

Second, you shouldn't neglect the muscles complimentary to the above.  I don't think that there is anything wrong with doing pushups.  It will help keep your muscles balanced and help prevent injuries.  Also, don't forget to workout the muscles on the back of your fore arm.  Those on the inside get a good workout while climbing, but if you don't workout those on the back of your arm, you could run into issues in the future.

Third, work your core.  Abs, obliques, and lower back.  This will help your stability.

Lastly, I think that flexibility is a great tool when climbing, and in my experience flexible muscles are better than those that aren't.

I should mention that I'm not a doctor, trainer, or anything like that.  I'm just a climber and my suggestions are based on the things that have worked for me in the past.  Ultimately, I think the best way to get better at climbing is to climb.  There is no way to exercise technique or muscle memory other than to get out and climb.


Thanks for the question,
Nick