Trying to start

Question
Hey there robert,

I want to pick up rock climbing and actually start getting to a good enough level where I can do climbs on mountains around the area I live (CT), but I dont know where to start. I figure a rock climbing gym but is there any advice you can give me or a direction you could point me in so I can get to the level of outdoor mountain climbing?

appreciate any advice you can give me.

Answer
Dear Ben,

It is most intelligent of you to recognize the difference between gym climbing and outdoor climbing.   The skill-sets required for staying safe in the mountains are intricate and are never learned in a gym.  I'll offer some quick advice here and will follow up as other useful thoughts occur to me.  Your sources for acquiring needed outdoor skill-sets are three:  books, classes, experienced partners.

1.  There are many good books about climbing.  The absolute best instruction books written are by the great climber John Long.  His "How to Rock Climb" and "Climbing Anchors" are great first books to read.  Amazon has them.  I still read "Climbing Anchors" yearly and I've been climbing for thirty-five years now.

2.  Long, long ago I took a beginner's course at the Yosemite School of Mountaineering.  Many reputable businesses now offer instruction.  I advise going to the American Alpine Club website to look for schools in your area.  In fact, I advise going ahead and joining the AAC.  It offers a wealth of information on every mountain topic.

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/

3.  Gym climbing may lead you to competent outdoor partners.  It might not.  You need to be careful about the people you climb with initially.  AAC events could introduce you to folks who would be safe to climb with.  Also, instructors in any classes you take might offer introductions to people who are good leaders.

Allow me to add a few more thoughts:  
    Don't let numbers deceive you.  The rating of a climb doesn't come close to indicating its true difficulty or objective danger.  One of my most terrifying leads was 160 feet of unprotected 5.7 friction off a hanging belay.  If you're climbing 5.10 in the gym, drop to 5.5 or 5.6 outside.

    There's a lot to placing natural protection.  Again, I refer you to John Long.  Also, take time to see what your leader has done when you follow an outdoor pitch.  Even bolted climbs require care and knowledge.   Your first leads should be on climbs you've followed before.  

    Weather?  If it's not right, come down and take a hike or go to a movie.  In fact, if anything about a climb makes you uneasy, it's best to pull the plug.  That rock isn't going anywhere.  

    Gear?  I favor Black Diamond stuff myself, though other companies are equally reputable.  Spend the money and get the best.  

    Rappeling or lowering off?  A large percentage of accidents and deaths occur on the way down.  Check the anchor; check the rope; check your harness.  Do it again.  

    Redundancy - whenever you can back something up (another sling, another piece, another carabiner), do so.  Redundancy has kept thousands of climbers alive, including this one.  

    History - if you begin to enjoy the sport, start reading climbing narratives.  You'll learn a great deal, some of it useful.  

  Enjoy the creativity!   The best thing about climbing is that sense of creation, even on routes that have been done a thousand times before.  You bring your tools and your mind to the problem and your solution will differ from all others.  Sending your mind out in front of you is perhaps the best safety precaution of all.

Do let me know if you have further questions.  I'll write again if something else important comes to me.

Yours,

Bob Walton