Big diff in drivers

Question
QUESTION: I had been sending numerous emails and I think things are pretty much coming together.  I'm even getting to the point where I am so deadly at my short game that I am teaching others.   

I found out that an old school Callaway Big Bertha 11 degree driver with a steel shaft is the one I can hit consistently and get at least 250 yards from it.  At this stage of the game, I am sticking with the Callaway (besides, when one hits it, it sounds more like a GOLF SHOT compared to the tin can sound of the titanium drivers).  

Now to the square head driver (Orlimar Trimetal 9.5 degree with the shaft shortened to 43.5 inches).  I can hit it quite a ways (close to 300) WHEN I hit it and I do have to admit that it does feel nice when hit properly.  But the question I have is what is the difference in setup for the jumbo driver vs the earlier ones (besides tee height and how far you stand from the ball)?

ANSWER: Lou:

I would say nothing.  I certainly don't set up differently than I did 15 years ago because I have a big headed driver in my hands.  Keep doing what you are doing.  If you can't hit the driver consistently, don't try to make corrections on your swing.  If you are swinging good, please keep that confidence and keep working on what got you there.  If the driver doesn't work except for one out of 10 somehow goes 300, perhaps it's the makeup of the club itself.  Clubfitting comes into play then.  Use technology and let it help you.  Get professionally fit, take the time and spend the money to get the right equipment in your hands.  If you are unwilling to do that, be happy with 250 in the middle of the fairway.  But either way, keep working on what got you there in the first place.  If you want to try a different club, make sure it fits your swing, don't try to make your swing fit the club.  

Eddie Kilthau
PGA Member

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: On the subject of fitting....  if I go to Web Fit @ pinggolf.com, I plug in 6'1" and a wrist-floor height of 33"  It comes up and says "Black" for irons and standard shaft length (which, for a driver, is 45 inches these days and that length feels uncomfortable).

Here's the measurements on the woods I hit well:

5 wood 42" (has stiff shaft and I haven't touched it)
7 wood 40" (1 inch shortened regular shaft)

The Callaway driver has a 42 inch steel shaft (I hit this one well).

The one I have a hard time:

The Orlimar square driver currently has a 43.5 shaft length r/s flex.  Originally, it was 45 inches.  Going to 42 inches is a bit radical with the current shaft and would probably make the swingweight like that of a ladies' club. The cost of re-shafting is pretty minimal (the labor at Golfsmith is $17.00 and the costs of shafts aren't that bad).  I'd like to keep the swingweight at about D2 or so and still have the shortened shaft (either 42 or 43"), so what type of shaft would you recommend? I'm thinking I may have altered the swingweight too much when shortening it.

Like I read, ill fit is part of the equation.  I've always done well with irons.

ANSWER: Lou:
I would suggest a 43 or 44 inch driver.  Remember that shortening the length of the shaft makes the shaft stiffer, so perhaps you would do well with a regular shaft.  D2 is fine, graphite shaft preferred.  I would think whatever shaft you put in (there all pretty good nowadays), it would work for you.  I would guess you would want something to frequency out at about 5.5 to 6.0 (meaning stiffness).  The other thing I would do is to try different shafts.  If at all possible, hit them.  Otherwise, it gets expensive changing out shafts every few months because it's not doing what you think it should.  

Good luck Lou....

Eddie Kilthau
PGA Member

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: What I did with the 9.5 degree driver was put 8 strips of 3/4 X 1 1/2 inch lead tape on the rear of the clubhead (remember I shorted the shaft to 43.5 inches and it had an "r/s" flex).  The feel is just about right now.  I also get what I consider  a desired trajectory for a driver. When I do get around to buying a new driver, I will most likely go to Golfsmith armed with this particular club.

Now to fine tune the short game.  Miramar is nice because one can practice pitching over a bunker at the practice area.
ANSWER: Lou:

Sounds good Lou, you are certainly a student of the game.  You can never practice your short game enough.  

Eddie Kilthau
PGA Member

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I figure after playing 30+ years (with little or none since 1993), I decided to play it RIGHT.  In HS, I played by instinct and carried a starter set (1-3-4 woods, 3-5-7-9 irons) and added a Haig Ultra Dual Wedge (which, I found out recently, has about a 58 degree loft).  I managed to score in the mid-90s for 18.

Nowadays I have more time to practice now that the Navy and college are behind me.

My short game is pretty deadly these days.

I hit the 7 and 9 woods very well and very consistent.  Now that leaves me whether to leave out the 5 wood or 5 iron (I hit both of these OK but they aren't so easy to hit) to maintain a 14 club limit.  I think I find it easier to leave out the 5 iron because I can work a 6 iron pretty well and I probably could work the 9 wood.
ANSWER: Lou:
Correct, the 9 wood will replace the 5 iron anyway.  Good choice.

Eddie Kilthau
PGA Member

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: So I have arrived at my final setup.  

My son is going to buy some Snake Eyes wood heads (5,7,9 - 19, 23, 26.5) and some Aldila shafts for my b-day. Even though my current 7 wood feels a bit light (because I shortened the shaft 1 inch so they are same length as steel) I hit the heck out of it.  I'm going to play with lead tape to restore the swingweight and also see how it hits. The fitter at Golfsmith says they weight both the hosel and the butt of the shaft evenly to bring the swingweight up.  So now I am armed with info to have new woods fitted based on all my "mad scientist" experiments. Thoughts?  

I mentioned that I cut the shaft on my Orlimar square driver from 45" to 43.5".  I just put 8 strips of lead tape on the back of the head and if feels just about right.

A plug for Golfsmith P2 irons - they are probably about the best bang for the buck. $31.50 each.
ANSWER: Lou:  You are outside my realm now.  Never got into the weights, measures and numbers.  It sounded like you had your stuff about where you wanted it, then you are getting new stuff from your son, but at least you have a good idea of what you want to feel.  Good luck.  

Eddie Kilthau
PGA Member

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: My daytime job is as a hardware engineer so tweaking things sort of goes with the job description. Now that I know what works, what fits, etc., it is time to go to the next level.

The online golf tips I have received from you over the past few months have been quite helpful.  I now hit it pretty much straight as an arrow and am getting consistent.  I even can do an intentional draw (maybe because hooking has been a natural thing for ages). Doing a fade is another story.  What is the easiest way to hit a fade?

Answer
Lou:

Easiest way to hit a fade is to line up your shoulders, forearms (if there was a club across your forearms) and feet (toe line) to where you want the ball to start and align your clubface up to where you want the ball to end up (your target) and then just make a good swing. I would usually grip a little firmer in the last 3 fingers of your left hand so the clubface does not rotate or turn over.  That is the simplest way Lou.  

Eddie Kilthau
PGA Member