QuestionQUESTION: I am a 220 average league bowler, a USBC Youth coach, a "tweener" and serious about the game. My question has to do with extremely dry or "fried " lane conditions for practice. I love the oil but of the four establishments in a 25 mile radius from home,
(2 synthetic, 2 wood), practice sessions are always conducted in the extreme dry, as none of the houses oil outside of league.
Although I try to come away from every outing with a little more knowledge, I sometimes feel that the lack of any oil may be hurting my game or at least not really helping me to improve it. You find yourself using your weakest equipment, or plastic spare ball, in an effort to hit the pocket with any amount of energy remaining in the ball. Further, there is a tendency to "chuck" the ball, flatten your release or throw it especially hard to compensate. None of this seems to contribute positively to rythm or muscle memory. The best and only thing that may come out of it is that it forces you to make sure you fully extend your arm after the release, but the other gyrations you need to make (loft, playing too deep to the inside, ball speed)often negate that. Outside of going back to the early basics, (50' & 60's frozen rope deliveries, which is not my game), I am wondering what to do next. Any suggestions? And thanks for taking the time to read this.
True Bowler Adjustment
ANSWER: Hi Jerry,
I am going to be real, and take the one of the last sentences you wrote, and start out with it! Although you were talking about the 50's and 60's frozen rope deliveries, the meat of this sentence was; "its not my game!"
We sometimes think because "its bowling," we should be able to conquer every facet of the game to show our prowess of the lanes. Sometimes we overly task our competitive spirit, when the truth is, there are definitely conditions we should avoid at all cost! One is no oil!
The Pro's play on all the patterns, however "they all" have their favorites they can make money on! International, as well as Kegel patterns for tournament play will excite some and injure others! Yes, I said injure! As athletes, we must train to compete on different patterns. Just like any gifted house bowler, they know the bowling centers they can play well in and the centers that "challenge" them.
Jerry, you know bowling today is about "matching up!" Your eyes should tell you whether the ball is communicating with the lanes, or if it is not!
Its hard as hell to get any ball "not" to burn up on the front end of a dry lane, while trying with all your might to not hit up on the ball! Especially while in the back of your mind you are trying to keep your speed up!
Even worst is spinning it at release, only to find "your swing" wasn't enough to get it down the lane! Likewise, when a ball rolls "too early," it just makes you want to scream, and when it hooks too late, never grabbing the lane, you scream anyway! (smile) "Loft" sometimes becomes your only friend because you can't put enough slick surface finish (4000) or polish on that ball to keep it from burning up too soon.
In the end, the question remains "is this a condition that you want to waste your time on?!" Maybe?...But probably because you see it as a part of you, and like me, "maybe," ...you see it as a part of bowling! Conquering it and moving on is a great motivator.
So lets just say you go buy a ball like I did, a Scout reactive. Make sure it does not have an off-set puck inside. Perhaps you do like it did, and.....it works! Beautiful! ... 210, 220 even 260! The point is: What did you learn!?!
*****The "Ball," and the "lane" must "talk" to each other based on "your speed" and the "release" you are using!*****
If one of the factors are not to your liking, you can "try" to "fix" it. It may take some time to figure out. Just know that on the "dry" you have to know when to put asymmetrical balls away...if you have them in your bag!
If there was a solution to pitch to you, (since it seems you truly want to practice and not be frustrated) I would suggest being proactive and get a couple of balls with symmetrical cores/High RG types. As always, check with the pro shop professionals. Frankly, tell them you want a ball for when the lanes are dry! Look at the chart for "that ball" they have on the wall. Ask them point blank. "If I spin the ball out of my hand, will this ball check up early?" OR " If I deliver this ball forward rolling do you think it will roll out too soon?"
The key to bowling nowadays is knowing how you release the ball, your speed, and making the ball/ball surface, and the lane match up in the end!
I would really love to hear that you found the right piece (ball) to get to the back end and pound the pocket! Jerry, I would like even more to hear you matched up, even on the dry beaten down pattern. Consider the items I mentioned about matching up(the asterisk or stars are next to them). Its a great feeling to be able to have fun no matter where you may have to practice!
Take care. Roll Strong, Roll Hard! Roll True!
P.S. By the way, you did great presenting your case! I was able to write "Loft" ten times, as I read your question and agree with you on all areas! You must be a terrific coach, you were truly on point!
-Gary
Las Vegas, NV
www.TrueBowlerAdjustments.com (Its a great book!)
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Gary,
Thanks so much for the awesome feedback. Now, here's what's in my bag: (all 15#):
Benchmark ball is a Vision Warlock Blue, 600 surface. It works extremely well for me on House Shot. For Sport patterns there is the Hammer Jigsaw, 5/4 surface. I also have a Roto Grip Grand Illusion,(used rarely), a Roto Grip Horizon (peal) for dry conditions (used only for practice now due to oil impregnation and age) and a plastic spare ball. I could get into drill patterns but that would be overkill. What I'd like to know is, do you think my present "arsenal" is adequate? And what changes, if any, would you suggest? (I am going to keep the Warlock and Jigsaw, but the other two are questionable.)
Thanks again!
Answer
True Bowler Adjustment
Hello Jerry, Can't really comment on what you have in your bag except to say that by the end of this things could get a little technical. "If there is a ball you like on a certain shot( sport or house shot) knowledge of "the distance of the oil," and "volume of the oil" begins to take a place in your life." After a certain distance the ball needs to recover and pound the pocket!
A house shot 42 feet (18 feet recovery) but low volume will make a ball roll out and not be affective in the middle of the first game.(5 people playing, heads burn up) Where as a 37 foot (23 feet recovery) but high volume of oil will make the shot play like its 42 feet however the ball may never rev up and roll into the pocket.(Same number of people created carry down just as quickly as the other lane drying out!) In a sense, layouts become important.
Unfortunately I can't make a recommendation because I would have to know PAP, your release, how many steps you take, how you release the ball; well in short, I would have to be where you are, to see you make the bowling balls, do what they do!!! In other words without a video of you, and your present layouts, covers and cores. "Guessing between 5 feet of recovery is really difficult." Its just too many variables, which is another reason why I wrote my book True Bowler Adjustments. Bowlers need to practice and then follow up with reading a little bit about what options "adjustments" are available to them when bowling.
With five extra feet of dry or carry down,you may end up getting tapped all the time. "just because of your speed, release, layout and cover of the ball is close," -but missing sump'n!
One thing I have learned about bowling though. Some people thrive well with lots of top weight, while others without lots of top weight do well too.(its personal) Check the top weight on your Jig Saw and Warlock(probably top weighted). Then check the top weight on the other two Roto Grip balls. You may be surprised to find the benchmark ball saves energy for recovery because there is more or less top weight for the house shot "based on your delivery/release." Once you do that, you may be able to adjust the covers to compensate for burning up too early, or for not recovering soon enough.
Thank you again, for straightening out another wrinkle in my brain today! It's always enjoyable to try to make it simple. USBC always encourages dedicated bowlers to get coaching. Thanks again for letting me yak atcha and bend your ear! Work with your pro shop and see what the deal is on your bowling balls. Knowing your equipment saves a lot of headache when you want to tweak something. Take care Jerry! P.S. That ball you don't use much, check the ball fit,just for the heck of it. See if the drillings match your benchmark ball. Generally bowlers don't use a ball when "something is wrong with it" or they are never on a condition to use the ball.
-Gary
Las Vegas, NV
[email protected]
www.TrueBowlerAdjustments.com (it's a great book!)
