QuestionI understand the concept of track flare using 'fresh' coverstock by each revolution and therefore enabling a ball to suck up more oil of the lane increasing friction which results in more hook. What I do not understand is that there should be a significant increased hook when track flare increases from let's say 4" to 6" when everything else stays the same. Both balls will show clearly separate oil rings. The only difference is that the ball with the most track flare will show separation of the oil rings on the intersection of the rings a little bit earlier. If you compare however a track flare of 0" with 2" there will be of cource a great difference in hook. So, there should be a non-linear correlation between track flare distance and hook potential, where the additional hook potential decreases as the track flare increases.
Ball manufacturers however classify there products in low, medium and high flare using a linear scale, thereby indirectly suggesting a linear relationship between track flare and hook potential. With my opposed theory in mind, this would be a misconception.
Am I on the right track or do I overlook something?
Answer
www.TrueBowlerAdjustme
Ruud, wow, from the Netherlands, I can explain flare to you and the rest of the world but it encompasses numerous factors, and can be extremely complicated.
Track flare "does not" equal hook as a layman bowler thinks it does. Education will define that axis migration (movement of the core) causes Track flare.
Your explanation that the ball catches a fresh surface area every time to create friction is the party line that is most accept. Transparently, this can be better seen as the bowling ball hydroplaning during the "skid phase" trying to find the core's preferred spin axis.
Going further, and keeping this as short as possible. Controlling the flare potential of ball is based on "when" do you want the ball to flare and how much?
Also, often how much can a "bowler's release" can make it flare with relation to their 3 3/8th "strong spot" and the two points on opposite sides of the strong spot. On one side you will have the bowler's Positive Axis Point(PAP). On the other side you can put the pin as much as 3 more inches away from the strong spot which is as much as 6 inches away from your PAP.
As you may know, placing the pin on the PAP will make the ball roll earlier with very little core migration or "track flare" right out of your hand.(this will be the first "minimum" flare potential of the ball.)
The second pin position which may be 3 3/8th of an inch away from the PAP, will be it's most violent or "max" flare.(If you can achieve the flare potential from your release), which is as much as 8 inches sometimes, God's blessings to you.)
Lastly, the ball can be pinned far away from your PAP as much as 6 inches, to flare later down lane.(this flare once again will be more toward the "minimum" flare potential of the bowling ball.
So "when" do you need the ball to flare is the key question? And how much will it potentially flare based on the pin placement ( and other factors) is already answered for you on the bowling ball information sheet. If it says potential flare 4 to 8 inches, then 4 inches will be the PAP point and a point approximately 6 inches away from your PAP. The Strongest flare potential will be the strong spot at 3 3/8 inches from your PAP, which could flare as much as 8 inches "if" your release will allow you to do that).
Gaining education in the area of ball drilling will help you pin point those factors to manipulate "when" you know the core is migrating and how much. Whether it is to move your ball a little in the front end, to ignore the front end, or to just move on the backend.
The flare potential of a ball is a guide to help you get a "feel" for the ball. From this, ball drillers and seasoned bowlers make "educated" guesses toward successful outcomes.
When you can gauge a pattern for high oil and for drier conditions that is when the aspect of axis migration influencing the flare of the ball will serve you greatly.
Whether it is an inside shot that is long. Or a outside drier shot that is short. Knowing the flare "potential" give you a little insight to the match you with the ball. It sometimes can define a ball that may roll out too soon for you, or a ball that may skid too much not allowing the core to get into proper position to carry.
In summary: Flaring is cool, it's nice to know, but the rings simply mean the core is moving, even if the ball is skidding and not hooking. That flaring means the core is trying to get into the right position for it's run to the pins.
However, if the core is not in the correct position coming out of the oil to finish it's path with further migration (maybe it has rolled out) or it is not in a proper position for the core and cover to achieve true traction into the pocket and carry; then flaring is just that. Flaring.
The pin or core needs to flare consistently at the correct spin time, to place the cover and core in a position to carry the hit through the pins, based on your lane condition (oil volume and length), your speed, your revs, Mass Bias influence, cover prep, core values, and your release. Ruud you were not far off, but to quote a radio and tv personality here in America,"Mr. Paul Harvey,"now you know...the rest of the story!" Good-day! :-)
-Gary
Las Vegas, NV.
www.TrueBowlerAdjustments.com (It's a great book!)
