QuestionI am a bowler who is coming back to the sport after 12 years due to a rotator cuff tear. I used to bowl with my thumb in the ball, but due to tendonitis in the thumb, I learned how to bowl without it inside. On our home lanes, the oil is pretty much basic house condition but I purchased a new bowling ball, the Lane 1# Dynamo, which is hyper aggressive, but I wanted to see if it could eliminate my 10 pin leave problem. Considering I bowl with no thumb using an aggressive reactive bowling ball, the Elite Black Label, I can definitely bowl straight or hook it as much as I want. Only thing is that ball gives me lots of single pin leaves. What would the best way be for me to have the Dynamo drilled so that I can "max out" its performance?
Answer
www.TrueBowlerAdjustme
Mike, getting the ball to roll cleanly through the pins is an art. The proper drill and ball cover prep, are the last two items a ball driller considers to keep the ball in the pocket.
What I hear, is that you are soooooo close to getting that great pin carry but sump'n is off just a little bit dammit! I mean, darn it....! Unfortunately a bowling ball can arc to the pocket at the last moment, and hit high leaving corner pins, or a bowling ball can hit low in the pocket and leave corner pins.
Sounds like you have the skill set to deliver very nice shots, however the ball and oil conditions are letting you down. I truly suggest you consider having this conversation with your ball driller. You have asked the right question, get the answer from someone close to you if you can.
With my high-level, two-finger high rev, and professional bowlers, I often have the problem of the bowling balls burning up on the front end. Often when the ball arrives at the pins it's in a terminal spin that looks like it's going to hook through the pocket but because "it's hooking" the ball just deflects even more. We don't think about it much.
However, in my new book, I write in plain language, "as long as a ball is skidding and hooking it can be deflected!" Your job as a True Bowler is to get the ball to face up and "roll" through the pins.
Making the adjustments needed to carry the strike, or to string strikes is the goal. I am committed to helping bowlers to pursue this in literature with "True Bowler Adjustments".
If you drill the new ball, (the Lane#1 Dynamo) without knowing your Positive Axis Point (PAP) you could very well just be taking a shot in the dark. You need to know if you are spinning the ball, or forward rolling the ball. In either case you may be sabotaging yourself. Some bowlers can spin the ball straight down the lane as well as forward roll it straight down the lane.
Just take note of the action your Elite Black Label is doing on the lanes. The Elite is classified as a medium condition oil lane ball. Basically, it's for shorter volumes of oil, or a shorter pattern than your 40 foot shot you presented. I ask that you do not rush to get your new bowling ball drilled (The Lane 1 Dynamo) Heavy Oil condition ball, unless you consult with a pro shop professional. This ball may roll very early, or even go brooklyn for you depending on whether it is drilled in a High RG position OR a lower RG position for you.
Tweaking the layout, often requires having a ball driller who is very much like your psychologist and your mechanic.
He or she is 搇istening?to you, analyzing your thoughts and your equipment. This is personal, very personal. Presently, you have one ball with a light, smaller core (the Elite) and another ball with a larger core (the Dynamo)very early rolling. There were bowlers on YouTube throwing the Dynamo from 30 out to the 5 board and back.
You have a bowling ball that has large porous holes in the cover and another ball that has smaller holes in the cover for less suction grip on the lanes (the Elite).
Leaving 10 pins, is not just leaving 10 pins. It's speed, release, tempo, loft, laydown, oil volume, oil length, using your eyes, ball cover porosity, ball core influence and most importantly: "knowing your current ball layout and cover prep."
I have written a couple of articles here on AllExpert.com concerning the 10 pin, however I have never concretely committed to telling anyone specifically what they could do to eliminate the 10 pin. That would be wrong. Only in my book will you see the variables that will help you string strikes and make wiser choices when it comes to eliminating the 10 pin.
I hope you will review my articles and understand why I do not go there, when it comes to providing that much needed information that you require. Quite frankly, it's complicated and as a professional coach, it may mess you up more and waste money if I did so on this forum. That is unacceptable, even for and educated guess.
Please feel free to write to me, or to review "many answers" on my sites such as Facebook. I want to help, trust me. However, I don't want to mess you up or many other bowlers out there who are just that close to bowling that perfect game. Happy Holidays, and I hope to hear from you very soon.
In summary Mike, you are there, don't choose the easy path and just drill the new ball stronger. Consult with your pro shop professional. He or she should be able to help you. If you get no satisfaction in the future, just let me know!
[email protected]
-Gary
Las Vegas, NV.
www.TrueBowlerAdjustments.com (It's a great book!)
