Brunswick Evil Siege Ball

Question
QUESTION: You asked me how my ball rolls after you told me I had a vanilla drilling layout. I was able to find that type of layout online. My ball seems to be hooking really late like 15-30 ft before getting to the pin at the back-end. I start all the way on the left and throw the ball to the right gutter. The shape of my ball path makes a hockey stick type angle before smashing the 1 and 3 pin? I notice there was oily rings on like 3 different spot of my ball. I think I still have to work on my release to make it consistent? My ball is good for medium to oily lanes right?? And how do you tell what oil pattern the place I bowl at uses is there any way to tell? Cheetah, shark, viper, house? and there a lot more i can't remember what they're called. which one gives people a tough time?

Thanks again for your help.

ANSWER: Simon,
If you're a newer bowler and you're standing to the left and throwing to the right you are bowling on the absolutely easiest "house" condition. Talk to the center you bowl in to find out what kind of length and volume of oil is on the lanes. PBA and Kegel patterns are typically more demanding for bowlers.

You mentioned the ball rolls late. But 15 feet is very early, as 30 feet is half way down the lane. Pins are 60 feet from the foul line. You want the ball to start reacting 40-45 feet down the lane so you have a window of about 20 feet before the ball hits the pins.  

The Evil Siege rolls different for different bowlers. The slower you throw the ball the more oil you can handle. But, rolling the ball consistently is key, so as a new bowler try to do what is easiest to repeat. The Evil Siege was a high performance ball awhile back designed to handle more oil.

Thanks again for the questions.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: The bowling alley I go to always have leagues and then I usually bowl after the league. But you're right I should just ask the people there what oil pattern they apply to the lanes. I stand on left and throw to the right and sometimes as I bowl more games the ball doesn't make it to the 1-3 and most of my shots goes Brooklyn or misses more over to the left even missing Brooklyn. How to adjust to that? Miss left move more over to the left and aim at same target? Or do I move to the right and aim at same target?

Oh sorry. I actually meant my ball reacts really late it goes down the lane 40-45 feet. Then the other 15 feet the ball makes a sharp hook and hits the pins. so my layout is vanilla meaning? simple? is it more like drilled for length with late back-end hook?



i have a few questions. i have over like 100+ games with my ball. what are some good ball cleaner that you use that you could recommend me? and if i don't want to spend money is there any other cleaner i can get that will not damage my ball. i also don't want it to change the cover-stock of my ball? Right now the ball is pretty dull.

and how often do people take the ball to the pro shop so they can get all the oil out of the ball? my ball i start noticing some pit holes in the cover-stock of my ball so lots of oil probably got into the ball after 100+ games of bowling.

Thanks again for the help.

Answer
Simon,
Brunswick makes recommended cleaners for their balls. Several independent companies make cleaners and polishes also. I'd suggest the manufacturers cleaners are the best option. But, a cheap alternative is a mild version of Isopropyl alcohol, to be used as a solvent cleaner. Be very careful with the stuff.

Talk with your local shop guy about a cleaning schedule, they'll know how much oil you are dealing with. Reactive balls absorb oil. You can remove oil more often to allow the ball to be more aggressive on oily lanes, but it sounds like when you bowl in the evenings the lanes are hooking. To control the amount of hook you see, try to put the ball on more oil in it's path to the pocket. So, don't send the ball out as far. Try to keep the path straighter to the pocket and let the ball work downlane to hook later and closer to the pins.

The pits you mention are a result of the coverstock material type. The cover typically solidifies in around 90 seconds. The nature of the urethane coverstock is that it's a myriad of microscopic pores. The pits are just bigger pores. So the surface is rough at it's inception.

Thanks for the thanks. If you appreciate my help a donation would be appreciated.