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Fine-Tune Your Worm Fishing


Photo by Outdoor Life Online Editor

He had the vaguely tattered look of an
expert trout fisherman, yet he cast neither
spinners nor flies. Intrigued, I stayed
to watch as he carefully worked his way
upstream. He used a soft underhand cast
to deftly flip his bait into the head
of each promising pocket and pool, and
with his rod held high he slowly reeled
in slack line as the current carried the
bait back downstream. Several times he
briefly lowered his rod tip before sweeping
it back up, which more often than not
was greeted with the throbbing pulse of
a hooked trout. Where I had failed to
raise a single fish, he caught half a
dozen.


That he was worm fishing was clear, but
his approach and tackle were unlike any
I had seen before. His wispy spinning
rod was almost as long and limber as my
fly rod, and his small reel was spooled
with gossamer monofilament line. His terminal
tackle was equally light, consisting only
of a small hook, tiny split shot, and
half a nightcrawler. Watching him fish
was a revelation.


Natural Presentations

I was just 17 then, the starch not yet
out of my driver's license, but I had
already succumbed to several trout-fishing
prejudices. Worming was only for beginners,
I thought, and cold, roily water. I associated
it with forked sticks, clumsy snelled
hooks, and gobs of bait weighted down
with heavy sinkers. There was no finesse
to it, or so I imagined, and as a budding
trout fisherman I had naturally gravitated
to artificial lures.


But that encounter changed my mind. With
the right gear in the right hands, worm
fishing is not only highly effective,
it is an art form. And as my own experience
with light-tackle worming steadily grew,
I discovered that it also presents many
of the same challenges as flyfishing.


Foremost is the need for a drag-free drift.
The key to worm fishing in moving water
-- be it brook, stream, or river -- is
to present a bait that tumbles naturally
along the bottom, where trout spend most
of their time. Too much weight, and the
worm sits unnaturally on the bottom; too
little, and it is swept above the fish.
And as with dry flies, a worm skidded
across the current on a tight line is
more likely to alarm trout than elicit
strikes.


The easiest way to achieve a natural presentation
is to cast quartering upstream, using just
enough weight so that you can barely feel
the sinker ticking bottom as it slowly drifts
back downstream. Slack line is recovered
at the same pace that the bait tumbles back
toward you, and the rod tip is held high
to minimize the effect of other currents
on the drift of the bait and to help detect
bites. When a bite is detected -- either
through the telltale tap-tap of a taking
trout or by seeing the line move upstream
-- the fish should be promptly fed slack
line so it can mouth the entire bait, including
the hook. You should either drop the rod
tip and reach toward the fish or immediately
flip open the bail on your spinning reel.
Either way, after a pause of one to three
seconds, the slack line should be recovered
and the hook set with a snap of the wrist.
The larger the bait, the longer the pause.

When
Less Is More

Worm fishing also resembles flyfishing
in that worm fishermen must tailor their
offerings to the conditions at hand. The
most common mistake is to use too much
bait. As a rule, the amount of bait used
should steadily decrease as the season
progresses and the size of the stream
decreases.


Early in the season, especially on large
rivers that hold trout measured in pounds,
an entire 4- to 6-inch nightcrawler might
be called for, although far better are
"dillies," plump, 3- to 4-inch crawlers
that are weeded out by many commercial
bait dealers and sold separately to trout
anglers. On smaller streams, or as river
levels drop, half a crawler or a 2- to
4-inch garden worm is a better choice.
On low, clear waters and tiny brooks,
half a garden worm is called for, while
larger baits are needed whenever a hard
rain raises water levels.


Whole worms should be hooked in the middle
so that the ends hang free -- never ball
up worms on a hook. Worm pieces should
be threaded onto the hook starting at
the broken end. In all cases, use as small
a hook as is practical, ranging from size
8 for big nightcrawlers down to size 12
for garden worms and smaller pieces. Weights
should be small and easily removed, with
eared, size BB split shot the best all-around
choice. The addition or removal of a single
split shot can spell the difference between
success and failure, and expert worm fishermen
constantly adjust the amount of weight
on their line to match the depth and current
of the water being fished. Low-memory,
low-diameter monofilament line, either
2- or 4-pound test, also helps achieve
a natural drift by offering less resistance
to moving water.


ut measured in pounds,
an entire 4- to 6-inch nightcrawler might
be called for, although far better are
"dillies," plump, 3- to 4-inch crawlers
that are weeded out by many commercial
bait dealers and sold separately to trout
anglers. On smaller streams, or as river
levels drop, half a crawler or a 2- to
4-inch garden worm is a better choice.
On low, clear waters and tiny brooks,
half a garden worm is called for, while
larger baits are needed whenever a hard
rain raises water levels.


Whole worms should be hooked in the middle
so that the ends hang free -- never ball
up worms on a hook. Worm pieces should
be threaded onto the hook starting at
the broken end. In all cases, use as small
a hook as is practical, ranging from size
8 for big nightcrawlers down to size 12
for garden worms and smaller pieces. Weights
should be small and easily removed, with
eared, size BB split shot the best all-around
choice. The addition or removal of a single
split shot can spell the difference between
success and failure, and expert worm fishermen
constantly adjust the amount of weight
on their line to match the depth and current
of the water being fished. Low-memory,
low-diameter monofilament line, either
2- or 4-pound test, also helps achieve
a natural drift by offering less resistance
to moving water.



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