DIY- Water Test

About this time of year many readers will be coming to the decision about buying a boat. Perhaps it's not a new boat but hopefully it's going to a good enough choice for them to get some enjoyable times on the water this summer.

The large number of boats available in the market today makes the buying decision quite challenging. It's hard to know which way to jump at times with so many different types of craft. However, we can through this jungle of craft if are prepared to do our home-work.

Armed with a notebook, and a bit of time on Google Internet even the novice boatie can get a pretty good idea of what will suit their needs and budget.

They key to getting the ‘Right Boat' really gets down to eliminating what we Don't want as much as what we require. And this can be a case of being honest about what we can take on in terms of our current budget and free-time.

Yep, its great dreaming about hooking a marlin, or cruising through the Whitsundays but these dreams just might not be practical for either our budget, or busy life.

Which gets us down to question of whether you need a boat with cabin accommodation or not. In practice you're unlikely to actually stay over on a boat even if it does have comfortable bunks. Typically, new boaties will try the overnight cruise once, if at all. Unless you're the camping enthusiast type it's just not your cup of tea.

That's not to say you shouldn't buy a boat with comfy Vee berth and cruising facilities. Even if you just day-cruise you'll appreciate these creature comforts and ability to get out of the cold and enjoy an afternoon nap.

So assuming you've narrowed down your shopping list to a few boats the next step is the water test.

In most cases a seller will agree to a water test of second-hand boats. New boats are a little different in that dealers do not always have a demonstrator model available for testing. The first time you'll actually get a water test is after you've bought the boat!

Personally, I like to try before I buy so try to arm wrestle a test run with the dealer. Around spring dealers are more likely to give water tests because they've got rigged demonstrator models and time to do water tests.

Some dealers off open test days and these are well worth your while. They won't give you a lot of time behind the when, but at least it's a hands-on feel of different craft, keep in mind dealers are less likely to offer on-water demonstrations during the busy months of summer, so book yourself a ride now.

There are also a few summer boat shows around like Mandurah (WA) that provide the opportunity to water test boats during, or immediately after the show.

Before getting on the water I assume you've done research on the age and pedigree of the boat. And you've checked whether the person selling the boat really does have clear title!

You can also check www.marinews.com to see if there is any boat test on this model. And talk to boat dealers and boat builders to get as much background on the design as possible.

Especially if it's a second-hander you will have asked for a mechanical motor report. If that's not being offered by the seller you might consider getting one at your cost.

A dud motor can be costly; in fact it could well end up costing the value of the boat if you have to replace the motor. So check the condition of the motor BEFORE you sign the deal.

TEST DAY

Having established all the above is OK-next step is the water test. By all means bring along a boating mate or the wife especially if she is going boating as well. However, keep the kids at home because you don't want added distractions and emotion ruling your decision.

We're making a big purchase here so keep clam and your eyes ope. We're on a mission here to see if this boat really is the ONE.

A test session needs to be no more than two hours at most. However, in that time we want to get a good overview of the craft, including the trailer. It's not a bad idea to meet the owner at his home/yard to see how the rig tows on the road.

Following the rig on the road you can see if the trailer runs true and the boat is sitting straight and well secured. Are the brake lights working!

Once at the ramp see how easily the boat slides off the trailer. If the craft seems difficult to launch it may mean incorrect size trailer, or sized or worn rollers. The latter may be flexable, however, problems here could mean the boat has not been well maintained in other areas as well.

Once launched see if the motor starts easily and is not billowing a lot of smoke. More modern motors will start first go, however, even an older two-stroke carburetor motor should start within a few kicks of the starter.

Underway, just let the owner drive the boat and explain the operation of his/her craft. You'll actually learn a lot more at this stage sitting in the passenger seat. Listen to the motor and see how well it wuns under load. Also note how easily the boat comes onto the plane when the throttle is pushed down.

Meanwhile, check boat speeds off the motor gauge, or from a GPS. If the boat struggles to get onto the plane it could mean the motor is to heavy, or inadequate in size/power.

In most cases a boat should be on the plane somewhere between 3000rpm-4000rpm. If it needs more revs than that – run away!

Keep a note of boat speeds through the rev ramp. Typically, around 35000rpm it will be going on the plane. Around 4000rpm, it should be planning along nicely and running at its most economical speed.

The top speed will typically come in around the 5000-5600rpm mark, however, this will be a bit higher on a four-stroke. Keep in mind full throttle is also where the motor drinks the most fuel. That's why you want to see how the craft performs at the more economical three-quarter throttle level.

If you see a foil fitted to the motor it may mean the craft has an excessively heavy motor for the stern. And you can check that back at the boat ramp. If the waterline is more than 10cm above the stern chine edges the motor is probably too heavy.

Older model boats may also struggle to support a new, but heavier four-stroke so watch that too. Since mid 2005 you can find information line the builder's recommended horsepower and maximum motor weight on the Australian Builders Plate (APB). However, older boats will probably not have this information and it can sometimes be hard getting the information out of the boat builder.

Hands On:

Once the owner has demonstrated all the handling aspects of the boat, it's your turn for a test drive. At this point you should be in clear open water and well away from moored craft.

Once settled behind the wheel, adjust the seat settings and make yourself comfortable. Boats don't have rear-vision mirrors but the next best thing is having clear vision ahead and to your sides.

Underway you don't need to act like you're a guest on Top Gear. Just drive the boat in safe, steady, manner. Start driving at slower speeds before graduating to higher speeds.

A test drive is exactly that. You want to see how the boat steers and handles at different speeds without being stupid, or dangerous, slower speed stupid or dangerous. Slower speed turns, followed by wake crossings and then graduate to higher speeds with faster, wider turns to get a good feel for the boat.

How the boat handles will be affected by hull shape, power and the steering equipment. Some mechanical outboards steering systems can feel heavy to turn, if downright hard. Ideally, once you have reached 90hp and above, the boat should have hydraulic steering. It can be added to an existing boat, however, costs at least a thousand dollars fitted.

During the test run it's always a good idea to see how the boat rides over choppy water. You also should change the motor trim to optimize the boats performance at different speeds. You will generally have more trim at slow speeds and more trim out at high speeds.

You should also stop the boat in open water and test the stability by moving view weight from one side to another. Also, see how the cockpit feels for fishing against the side – is it a comfortable gunwale height with good toe-under footing?

Backing the boat up will give you a few clues as to whether ti has the correct size/weight motor on the transom. Too heavy and the stern will start to dig under as you backup.

Please don't go jumping boat wakes like a liar and giving your passengers potential back problems. This is not your boat so respect the owner and your passengers.

Having done your test, hand control of the boat back to the owner and thank him/her for ab opportunity. There may be some things that concern you about the boat at this stage but keep these to yourself for the moment. You may bring up your concerns once back on shore.

Personally, I recommend you ‘sleep' on any boat buying decision. If this isn't possible because you've travelled some distance, go and have a coffee break. Chat it over with your wife/mate and if this boat meets your needs to ahead with the deal.

Hope these tips help next time you buy a boat.