Determined to find her own private paradise Duc Hanh takes a cycling and kayaking tour to the far reaches of Halong bay After disembarking the Indochina Sails Junk onto a smaller wooden boat,...
Determined to find her own private paradise Duc Hanh takes a cycling and kayaking tour to the far reaches of Halong bay
After
disembarking the Indochina Sails Junk onto a smaller wooden boat, we
sail towards the shore of Ngoc Vung Island along with my fellow
travellers and a bunch of mountain bikes. We are off for a cycling tip
across this mysterious island which sits amongst the awe inspiring
Halong archipelago. Ngoc Vung (Mother Pearl) island is 50km from Halong
City抯 Wharf.
Once all around the island you could plunge
below and find a plethora of pearls, hence the name 慚other Pearl?
island. The island is 12 square kilometers in area with over 1,000
inhabitants living mainly off fishing, farming, aquaculture and
afforesting.
揑f you see the island from helicopter, Ngoc Vung
looks like a beautiful velvet handkerchief with white edging,?says the
captain of Huong Hai junk. 揑t seems to be floating on the water抯
surface.?揙nce upon a time, when night fell, the island would have
been illuminated by the incandescent pearls below,?he continues, lost
in his own happy reverie. Too bad, I reflect, that these finite ocean
treasures have been plundered.
After we arrive at the island抯
small wharf we grab our bikes and prepare to cycle to the east side of
the island where we抳e been promised we will find deserted beaches. We
take a coastal road that skirts the island抯 hilly terrain. The road is
spectacular. There is never a chance to get bored with stunning views
of land and sea.
Off the shoreline fishermen are caulking
their bamboo boat with tar or scrapping worms off the panels of their
wooden boats. Along the road several women are mending fishing nets or
drying peanuts. Up the hilly slopes, children blithely tend to oxen or
geese. On the verdant paddy fields farmers pull up weeds or busy
themselves with fresh water ponds of fish and shrimp. We抮e told you
can find big fish in these little ponds.
One farmer we meet
along the way, says, 揕ast week, my uncle caught a butterfish weighing
over 10 kg.?For those worried about cycling on country roads on remote
islands, Ngoc Vung boasts fairly smooth infrastructure all round. There
is certainly little by way of traffic. Just the odd three-wheeled
vehicle or motorbike passes by. Life on the island is simple. If you抮e
after tranquillity, it is here in spades.
揈verybody here
knows each other very well,?says Mien, who transports goods around the
island in his three-wheeled vehicle. 揥henever someone is sick everyone
on the island comes to wish them a speedy recovery. Whenever a family
has bad luck, everyone is ready to help them.
I have never
locked the door to my house. Here we are one big family.?The cycle
from the wharf to the beach is rather short, just 5km, so even if
you抮e not a keen cyclist you should find it easy enough. There is no
need to rush, no need to stress out. We stop frequently and bask in the
island抯 natural beauty.
When we finally arrive at the white
sandy beach, it glistens under the sunshine. There is not a soul
bathing on the beach. For tourists looking for a remote hidden getaway
spot this fits the bill. That of course means you have zero by the way
of services ?no bars or restaurants, no showers or toilets. But that抯
why we抮e here: To escape the crowds and bask in our own little private
paradise. We park our bicycles under the pine-trees where a small tent
has been set up for us to change into our swimsuits.
Then, one
by one, we run for the clear blue waters and dive in. After swimming,
sun-bathing and walking along the beach, with heavy hearts we cycle
back towards the boat. But the fun isn抰 over. After sailing away from
Ngoc Vung we clamber into kayaks and paddle towards Cong Do, a floating
fishing village in Bai Tu Long bay, 25km southeast of Halong city.
There are over 50 floating houses and boats nestled in amongst a series
of green rocky stacks and islets.
Covered from the wind that
sweeps across the sea, all around the floating village the water is
extremely calm. We paddle through as the villagers go about their daily
business. Fishermen mend nets, women cook up meals or wash clothes
while kids jump and splash outside in their watery gardens.
One
of the houses is an arresting shade of pink. We can抰 help but head
towards it. The owners, a recently married couple, tell us that they
spent VND200 million building the house. They have a baby on the way
and previously had lived on a small fishing boat. This pink house on
the high seas was where they were settling down to raise a family.
Getting
there You can travel to Ngoc Vung island by boat from Halong wharf, but
remember there are no hotels, restaurants so make sure you arrange a
round-trip! The locals here are very friendly and there may be a
possibility of a homestay accommodation with a homecooked seafood
dinner. An easier way to go about it is to book a tour.
You
can join a three-day and two-night tour with Indochina Sails that
includes visiting Ngoc Vung as well as caves, fishing villages,
swimming and kayaking in spots all across the World Heritage Site
Halong Bay. Shorter trips to the island are also possible. Indochina
Sails, 04 984 2362, www.indochinasails.com
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