In Part I we discussed general preparation for a time trial (TT), the basic attributes of a good time trialist, training strategies and how to pace. Part II will touch on better bike position, specific equipment to shave seconds and tricks to use during the effort that will buy you more time. In Part III, we'll discuss advanced training tips.
For this discussion we'll assume that you have the following pieces of equipment:
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Optional equipment:
Your head is the largest obstacle keeping you from aerodynamic efficiency when you've achieved a good TT position on the bike. You want a position that will let air flow over your aero helmet and then over your back. If your head is raised above the level of the back, efficient aerodynamics will be altered and your position will be ineffective.
Think in terms of your car: The hood of the car is the top of your helmet and the roof of the car is your back. You need to get your head tucked as low as possible to keep it out of the wind.
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It's also important to be as "thin" as possible—and this has nothing to do with your body weight. Being "thin" means that your elbows are as close together as possible as they rest on the elbow cups of the aerobar extensions. The "thinner" you are, the less drag you'll create.
The key to an efficient position is finding a balance between being able to generate the power you need to go fast for an hour while still maintaining comfort on the bike. The more flexibility you have, the easier it'll be to maintain aerodynamic tuck. If your back is in pain or your neck hurts because of the position, it'll likely affect your speed.
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It's inevitable that your final position will have you sitting very forward towards the nose. Take a look at any photo of the professionals taken from a side view. You'll see quite a bit of the rear portion of the saddle visible when the rider is in full aerodynamic tuck. If you find yourself sitting on the nose of the saddle, and everything else feels like it's in a position that will allow you to generate speed and power, then you have it right, or very close. You should feel like you're going downhill even when sitting on flat ground.
If you're serious about going faster, then a TT specific bike is a must. The frame tubes and geometry are engineered with aerodynamics in mind. All of the cable housings should be internally routed through the frame to create less resistance to the wind.
The handlebars (or bull horns) should be shaped-carbon fiber with smaller than normal brake levers and a narrow configuration. The aerobar extensions should also be carbon fiber, and can either protrude flat and terminate into the shift levers or curve up at the ends. It's a matter of preference and comfort.More: Riding the Race of Truth: Training for a Time Trial
Choosing the right wheels is also very important. A good wheel set can make a big difference and save you as much as 15 to 20 seconds over a 40K. The wheels need to have a deep profile of at least 50mm to give you aero benefit. Running a full disc wheel (or wheel covers) in the rear, in combo with a deep rim front wheel, is an optimal aero setup.
Finally, pump the tires up to about 120 to 125 psi. The more air in the tires, the smaller the contact-patch with the road, and the faster you'll go. You'll sacrifice some comfort, but greater speed is the tradeoff.
Paying attention to the wind, both before and during the race, is key in doing well in a TT. To be prepared, study a map of the course and get the weather report for the day of your race. Find out which direction the wind will be blowing from.
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Since TT's are almost always out in open areas away from urban centers, you can usually count on wind being a major factor. By knowing which direction the wind will be coming from, you can formulate a race plan and predetermine your efforts for specific parts of the course. This will help measure your efforts and help you negative split.
Try to know the course ahead of time. Driving or riding the course beforehand is the most important thing you can do to be prepared. Many riders don't bother to do this, which is surprising with something so simple. By obtaining a map of the course, the profile (showing elevation changes) and the direction of the wind, you'll be able to formulate a solid plan for attacking the course.
This is valuable even if you cannot physically ride or drive the course ahead of time. If you're able to pre-ride or drive the course, pay special attention to slight elevation changes, both up and down. Look for large buildings, barns and even cornfields that may block the wind and offer shelter to you. It's in those places that you can go harder and not worry about wind fighting you.
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Also check to see if the course has any aggressive curves or turns. If so, ride slowly through them on your pre-race ride of the course (or get out of your car) and check for things like pebbles, potholes, tar strips or anything else that could potentially slow you down. Knowing what to avoid is just as important as knowing when to put out hard efforts.
In Part III, we'll discuss how the course layout, profile and wind can be used to shave precious seconds off your time along with other advanced training tips.
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