Rock Climbing Anchors

The Importance of Rock Climbing Anchors

Rock climbing anchors are one of the most important things a rock climber needs to know how to setup. The anchor is essential in many aspects of rock climbing, especially when you are abseiling. A climber needs to be able to produce a self-equalizing anchor with two fixed bolts as well as position an equalized anchor.

A simple concept to follow when you are setting up your anchors is S.R.E.N.E. This can be used for rappelling, top roping, or belaying.

What does S.R.E.N.E. stand for?

Strong: You will need to anchor your anchor to something strong and solid. This can be whatever you have available as long as you are positive that your anchor will be secure. A stout tree (not a dead tree), good bolts, or an immobile boulder will work for securing the anchor.

Redundant: The anchor should be made of multiple components. This way your whole anchor will not fail if a component fails. Some climbers will use two anchors for a back-up plan.

Equalized: Your load should be distributed amongst all components of the anchor. This will help to decrease the chance of components failing.

No Extension: If a component of your anchor fails, then you do not want your anchor to stretch and cause shock loading in the other components. Shock loading may cause other components to fail.

Cord or webbing anchors will equalize as well as create redundancy. They are also able to adjust the length and the position of the anchor. You do not want your anchor to rub on any rock or sharp edges as it may cause it to be cut or tear.

A self-equalizing anchor can be set up in a variety of positions. If you tie an overhand knot in your webbing before clipping it, you will create an anchor that will self-equalize with minimum extension. If you tie both pieces, you will be able to create redundancy as well. The knots will keep the anchor intact.

Another way to equalize rock climbings anchors is to tie off the entire bunch of webbing with an overhand or figure eight knot. Your rope should also be clipped to the anchor with two locking carabineers. Carabinersshould be opposite and opposed to keep the rope from slipping out should the gates be opened by a rock.

Great care should be taken in placing anchors, as they are very important. Your life may depend on the anchor that you set, so you want to be sure that you check it and then check it again.

You can find more great resource on Rock Climbing Anchors here.

We hope that you enjoyed this article about rock climbing anchors until next time.