The 5 best belaying knots for climbing are very sturdy and resist friction. Please be aware that belaying knots are very safe, but should not be the only method of anchoring a climber. Check out the belaying knots below if you're looking to learn more about climbing safety!
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The figure eight. The figure eight is the most common belaying knot in the climbing world. The figure eight bight allows you to create a knot in the middle of a rope, allowing you to attach a carabiner to it. You basically make a loop, take the closed end of the rope and wrap it in a full circle around the rope, and pull it through the middle. Pull tight so the knot is not loose.
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The double fisherman. The double fisherman knot is a necessary knot for tying two ropes together. This is helpful if a rope breaks, or if the climber wants to rappel.
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The clove hitch. This hitch is made my making two opposing loops and putting them together to attach to a carabiner. This knot is easy to undo and allows the climber to hitch to the anchor without actually tying a knot.
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The Munter hitch. This belaying knot is the best friction knot for climbing. This is basically done by twisting a coil in the rope and then attaching the carabiner. Then, the loose end is passed through the carabiner as the break line.
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The mule knot. The mule knot is complicated to explain without a photo, but it is the most necessary belaying knot to know, as it is used for rescue. It is used after making the Munter hitch and allows for a Z-pulley system.